The collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME and artist Saeko Tsuemura, released in 1991, is still very much talked about to this day. This time, at WILDSIDE, the female figures at the center of this collaboration bask in the spotlight once again, more than 30 years later.
Why do these female creations conceived by Saeko captivate people so?
Drawing on valuable accounts from that era, this article traces the journey from the first encounter between Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME and artist Saeko Tsuemura to the present day.

In 1991, the Legends that Dwell within Leather Jackets were Unveiled in Paris

Paris in the midst of the Gulf War. The Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME men's collection, presented during that chaotic era, featured iconic graphics that are still talked about today.

Those iconic graphics were the female figures created by artist, Saeko Tsuemura.
At the time, Yohji Yamamoto was pondering the question “What does it mean to be a man?” and creating items centered on themes like leather jackets and oversized tailored jackets featuring the women they loved.
But it was right at that very moment that war broke out.
The underlying message transitioned to “Soldiers heading into battle with a portrait of their loved ones on their backs.”
It became intertwined with the “nose art” that adorned the fuselages of U.S. Air Force planes in the past and served as source material for this collaboration. Yohji Yamamoto’s atelier recalls that moment in history, saying “It wasn’t a matter of consciously thinking of war. But the sight of people heading to the battlefield carrying their loved ones on their backs was also a beautiful testament to people prepared to risk their lives.”

Saeko Tsuemura was the artist chosen to depict these “women on the back.”

Wanting to feature the faces of Japanese women, designer Yohji Yamamoto commissioned Saeko immediately upon discovering her work.

She was invited to Yohji Yamamoto's atelier in Shibuya at the time and painted the women adorning the backs of leather jackets.

That was the first encounter between Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME and artist Saeko Tsuemura.

Rare material depicting the 1991 show

Changing Materials, Unchanging Sense of Beauty

In 1991, the technique for applying designs to leather jackets was still in its formative stages.

Some works were drawn directly onto leather, while others used a more primitive technique of printing a white base layer before applying color.

This “handprint” was exactly what made Saeko Tsuemura’s work so captivating.

In 2002, graphics featuring Saeko Tsuemura would appear once again.

Under the theme “Showa-era actresses,” the technique evolved into printing on lightweight materials such as synthetic leather and organza.

The sheer fabric allowed the graphic to layer over bare skin, resembling a true work of art.

“Worn over bare skin, it lets your skin show through. Such a bold idea is truly characteristic of designer Yohji Yamamoto,” shares Yohji Yamamoto’s atelier.

Now, fast forward to present day—2025.

This collaboration from WILDSIDE features embroidery created using the latest technology.

The expression of a woman once rendered using the strokes of a paintbrush has been reborn in three dimensions through the layering of threads.

It was a choice made in pursuit of a depth beyond what prints could reproduce.

Why These Works Are Loved Across the Ages

Over three decades have passed, but the women conceived by Saeko Tsuemura never grow old.

To the contrary, looking at them now, they are the perfect embodiment of modern-day women.
“The women she draws seem mischievous and conniving. But that is precisely what makes them so real and compelling.”
Hearing those words spoken by Yohji Yamamoto's atelier, this interviewer could not help but nod in agreement.
Seductive, noble, and somehow provocative.

These women have stood the test of time not because they are “sweet” or “beautiful,” but because they represent “the real woman.”

Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME and Saeko Tsuemura.

What these two creators have in common is unwavering professionalism.


“It's because a serious artist collided with an equally serious artist that their combined works endured. If it had been a mere half-hearted collaboration, it would have long since faded away.”

The Authentic Proof Told by the Archives

The leather jackets unveiled in 1991 were sold after the show, thus becoming lost in the market.

Today, they are legendary items feverishly sought after by collectors the world over.


Recently, images of well-known names like G-DRAGON and Travis Scott wearing the brand have garnered attention in social media channels, so people may now associate the iconic graphics of Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME collection with artist Saeko Tsuemura.
Well-preserved originals continue to soar in value on the vintage market, but what holds even greater significance is that these items undeniably possess something that appeals to even celebrities who live lives of luxury.

The signature piece that gained widespread recognition after being worn by celebrities such as G-DRAGON and Travis Scott

Phantom Design Given a Chance to Shine at WILDSIDE

This WILDSIDE reproduction features previously an unreleased design not used in the 1991 show.

A phantom illustration commissioned by Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME, yet never released in the world.

Bringing it back to life with modern technology goes beyond a simple reproduction.
This latest collection will portray two types of garments; T-shirts and blousons.

Instead of prints, the blouson uses embroidery to express female beauty. The sheen of the thread mirrors the lustrous lines, creating a paint-like depth.

Also of interest is how the T-shirt design has been updated for modern sensibilities and techniques—for instance, the print now features a brown undertone to convey a more mature, serene atmosphere compared to the original design.

Yohji Yamamoto’s atelier remarks “This is no longer a mere reproduction. This is Saeko Tsuemura as she lives and breathes.”

While remaining faithful to the aura of the “mischievous girl” from that era, these pieces boast a finish that embraces modern times.

A blouson back featuring an embroidery. *A print is adopted for the T-shirt.

The Aesthetics of Time as Depicted by Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME

Spanning the passage of time from the leather jackets of 1991 to the WILDSIDE of 2025.

 After 34 years, the women depicted by Saeko Tsuemura once again come to life on the backs of jackets.

 This collaboration, born from the fusion of art and clothing, is not merely a reproduction. Rather, it is the embodiment of Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME's aesthetics of time.
Women who are quietly provocative, exuding an air of gallantry.

Their gazes shall look upon our era once more.